Instructions

Setting Up

1. Print a copy of these Instructions (see ‘Printer Friendly’ in menu)

With a phone or tablet: Save paper by working directly from the screen

BEFORE you start: Read the Instructions and watch the Instruction Video

2. Check your Tools and Supplies

Adhesive
Adhesive Tape
Batteries (8–AAA)
Battery Holders (2–4AAA)
Belt (one Belt to fit both Elsa’s)
Gloves (a pair to fit each Elsa)
Heat Gun
Heat Shrink Tube (7mm & other sizes)
Barrel-Jack Extension Cables (4)
Medical tape
Multi-Holder (2 clamps)
Permanent Marker (small tip)
Pliers
Remote Switch (12v. 2ch. latching)
Razor Knife
Screwdriver (tiny Phillips)
Solder
Solder Paste “Flux”
Soldering Gun
Wire Cutter
Wire Stripper (1.0mm/18awg)
Wire Stripper (0.18mm/27awg)
Wrist Bands (to fit each Elsa)

3. Build a 12volt Tester from your 2 Battery Holders:– Take the Red Wire from one and the Black Wire from the other, dip their pre-soldered ends in the Flux and clamp the Wires so the ends are overlapping. Dip your Soldering Iron Tip into the Flux (to clean it), melt a drip of solder onto the Tip, then touch the solder onto the Wire ends. Let it cool (2 secs.) then tug on the Wires to check the bond is good

4. Check your ElsaHandKit contents:

LED Strips (16)
Lengths of Wire (5)
Switch (1)

5. Test the LED Strips

If there is a problem email immediately for a FREE Replacement

First Elsa Hand

6. On the 5–Wires, Split both ends for 10mm(3/8inch). Strip the two separated cores for 3mm(1/8inch)––use a 0.18 or 0.2mm(26 or 27awg) wire stripper. Tin one end of each wire (the other end needs bare wires for testing)

To ‘Tin’ a Wire or Terminal: Dip the bare wire into the flux, dip the soldering iron tip in the flux (to clean the Tip), melt a drip of solder onto the tip, touch the tip onto the wire to transfer the solder (wire or terminal must be hot enough for the solder to flow and bond – if the target is large it takes time to heat up). Solder always migrates toward the heat source, so touch the tip to the opposite side of a wire to draw the solder through

7. Cut 16 pieces 20mm(3/4inch) of 7mm(5/8inch) heat-shrink tube and slide one onto each wire

8. Clamp a wire and an LED-strip so the tinned ends are resting on top of the solder –– White Tracer to + Dot

9. Add a dab of Flux

10. Touch a drip of solder onto each tinned wire end, holding the tip in contact just until the solder dot starts to melt, then quickly remove the heat. Wait a moment for the solder to cool, then test the connections by tugging on each wire

11. Test from the bare-wire end. Positive (Red) to White-Tracer wire

12. Slide shrink-tube to cover connections and the first LED

13. Using as little heat as possible; shrink the tube with your heat-gun. Then, while it is still hot, use pliers to squeeze the tube flat just over the wires

14. When the shrink-tubes have thoroughly cooled; use a razor-knife to carefully cut a window for the LED to shine through

15. Test from the bare-wire end

16. Repeat from step 8 until you have completed all five

Adjusting to fit your Elsa

17. Have Elsa put on one wrist-band and the belt

18. Mark the belt at the centre of Elsa’s back with an arrow pointing up

19. Hold the plug-ends of 2 barrel-jack extension cables (fat, white ends) at the wrist band. Stretch the cables up to the shoulder, across to the nape and down to the belt. Cut off the rest of the wire (along with the skinny, shiny barrel end)

20. Tear off 5 narrow strips of medical tape about 45mm(1 3/4inch) and stick them over each finger nail all the way from the first knuckle

21. Attach an LED strip to each digit, bending the end down a little to touch the finger nail. The tape should cover at least 2 LEDs

22. Gather the wires at the centre point of the wrist band – pulled snug, but not tight

23. Mark each wire at the wrist-band centre point

24. As you remove each LED strip, write the location on the back

Second Elsa Hand

25. Add 30mm(1 1/4inch) to each wire, from the Step 23 Dot, and cut off the rest

26. Repeat steps 6 to 16 to make a second set of digits

27. Pair each, in turn, with a finished one. Line up the LED pairs, mark the wrist dot, cut the wire length to an exact match, and write the same location on the back. Keep the two sets separate

28. Add one of the barrel jacks, from step 18, to your 12volt tester. Black tracer to Red wire, plain white to black wire

Do steps 29 to 35 on each hand separately

29. Split the wires back to the wrist mark

30. Do steps 25 and 29 to the Plug wire

31. Select only the positive wires (white and black tracers), strip 20mm(3/4inch) on all 6 wires

32. Twist all 6 wires together pointing the same way, add flux, then solder the whole bundle together

33. Repeat steps 29 to 32 for the negative (plain) wires

34. Test from the plug

35. Repeat steps 29 to 34 for the other hand

36. From your selection of shrink tubes, cut a piece to fit over each bundle right down to the split point, plus 15mm(1/2inch) extra to seal the end

37. Shrink the tube and squeeze the end

38. Test

Young Elsa’s Hands

39. Use 4 of the remaining wires and repeat from steps 3 to 38, with the following adjustments:

Steps 14/15: Check the Belt centre mark still works or figure out a compromise position
Steps 20/21: LED strips go across the palm, the tape goes round the back of the hand from end to end (cover at least 2 LEDs at each end)
If Young Elsa’s hand is too small for all 3 LED strips across the palm, put 2 right across and cut the remaining 2 LED strips in half (cut-line printed on the strip). Then tape both the shortened strips in place with longer tape going one above the base of the thumb and the other below
Step 24: Instead of ‘locations’ just number them 1 to 3, or 1 to 4

40. Sew each connection bundle to the centre of their wrist band

41. Test

12 Volt Belt Pack

42. Remove batteries from tester

43. Dismantle the tester

Pull gently while touching the tip to each connection

44. Glue the receiver, switch and battery holders to the belt

Power input end of receiver over belt centre from the left side
Switch 12mm(1/2inch) to the right of centre
Battery holder at each end wires pointing ‘in’, with 12mm(1/2inch) gaps between everything

45. Follow the wiring diagram below for steps 46 to 56

46. Tin both switch terminals

47. Solder negative (black) wire from left battery to a switch terminal (orange wire on diagram)

48. Cut positive (red) wire from right battery to fit the other switch terminal –– strip, tin and solder in place

49. Cut positive (red) wire from left battery to first ‘common’ (CM) terminal on receiver. Strip and tin just enough to fit into the terminal block

50. Cut, strip and tin the off-cuts from steps 47 and 48:

To bridge between the two ‘CM’ terminals
And from the second ‘CM’ to the + (positive) power input terminal (red wires on the diagram)
Tighten all terminal screws and check the connections

51. Cut 2 jack wires from step 19 to 400mm(15 3/4inch) overall. Split for about 70mm(2 3/4inch), strip and tin only the black tracer wires and install one into each ‘normally open’ (NO) terminal

52. Install the pre-soldered end of negative (black) wire, right battery into the minus-sign (negative) input terminal

53. Cut this loop of wire in the middle then strip both ends 20mm(3/4inch)

54. Strip the 2 jack wire plain (negative) ends 20mm(3/4inch)

55. Twist all 4 wires together

56. Add flux then run solder through the whole bundle

57. Install batteries – Test – All 4 hands

58. Select, cut and install shrink tube over the bundle

59. Cut notches into the receiver cover for the wires

60. Anchor the jack wires by tying each around the belt with the knot tightened down between the batteries and their adjacent units

61. Tape down the wires, cover and batteries –– leave access to the On/Off switch

62. Test …. All 4 hands

63. Turn the belt pack OFF before leaving it, because the radio receiver draws power all the time it is ‘ON’, regardless of where the hands are